Yard & Garden: June 26, 2020

This is the Q&A for the Yard and Garden show for June 26, 2020. Yard and Garden Live is a call-in radio show I do on KUTT 99.5 FM from 10-11:30 am and it will run through July 31, 2020. It can also be found on kutt995.com for online listening. If you missed a show or just want to read through the questions, I have written them all in my blog and will continue to do so throughout the season.

Guest Host: Kyle Broderick, Plant Pathology Extension Educator

1. The first question of the show was from a caller who missed the answer last week on the show regarding controlling grass in her red raspberries.

A. Mulch will be the best option for this area. Red raspberries grow upright so they don’t shade out the weeds as much as black raspberries. Glyphosate or Roundup can be used carefully around the plants as well. Use some type of a barrier between the grass and raspberries if sprayed or use a sponging type of applicator or paint it on the grass.

2. A caller has a mandevilla with leaves that are turning yellow with black edges. She also has a gardenia that is getting yellow leaves with black edges. What is this and can she fix it?

A. These plants are growing in containers being watered often enough. Be sure to check the drainage when watering to ensure the drainage holes are not clogged. Water containers until water runs out of the drainage holes. If that isn’t happening there may be a clog which could lead to root rot because the plants would be sitting in water. Be sure to test the soil before watering to ensure it is dry. Stick your finger into the soil to see if the soil is dry, if it is still wet, do not water until it has dried.

3. This caller has a new lawn, she thinks it is fescue. It was planted last year and last fall it looked great. However, when the hot, dry weather began this year, a few patches in the lawn dried up and look dead now. The lawn was described as drying up almost overnight as soon as the heat started and there was a black coloration to the plants. What is wrong with the lawn?

A. This could be drought injury, grubs, or pythium blight. The new plants likely don’t have a full root system yet which would cause it to dry up faster in the heat. Watering 1-1.5 inches per week would help with drought or heat stress. If she pulls up the turf and there are no roots, it would be from grub damage. Grubs can be treated now with a lawn grub control such as Merit or Grubex. If she takes a handful of the blades and puts them into a baggie and leaves them overnight, she might notice a fishy odor that would indicate pythium blight. Pythium will go away on its own, it doesn’t harm the crown of the plant and it will regrow.

4. A caller planted new grass a year ago after a new home was built. It was growing good, but now there are some grass plants that turn brown and have stickers on them. Would that weed have been in the turf seed? How can it be managed?

A. These are likely sandburs growing. They were not in the grass seed, they were most likely from the soil. When a new home is built, the area that was undisturbed before has now been worked up. Sandburs live in rocky, bare soil areas where grass doesn’t grow. They would have already been there when the home was built. Sandburs are an annual grassy weed, similar to crabgrass. They can be controlled with crabgrass controls. In the spring use a crabgrass preemergence herbicide and now that the sandburs have already germinated for the year, Drive or another product containing quinclorac can be used.

5. This caller has a tree row at his house. There are old firs or pines that seem to be dying out and now he has planted a row of blue spruce. The blue spruces are turning brown, starting on the inside of the plant moving outward. The damage on these spruces is on the side facing the old trees. What is wrong with these trees and what can be done to help them?

A. The old trees could be nearing the end of their life and may just be dying of old age. This does happen. As for the blue spruces, it could be a needle cast disease which is common on spruce trees and is prevalent now. It is not effective to spray with fungicides now, but next spring they can be treated with chlorothalonil. They should be sprayed when the new needles are half expanded and then again 4 weeks later when the needles are fully expanded. There could also be some problems on the spruce trees from the location near the dying firs or pines. They are likely not getting the airflow they need and the needles are staying wet longer. This could be intensifying the needle cast disease.

6. A caller wants to know what our opinion is on transplanting trees now? He would be moving them with a tree spade.

A. Regardless of the size of the tree or how it is moved, it would be difficult to keep a tree alive in this heat. If planting from a container grown tree, there would not be much for a root system on the new tree so it would have difficulty getting water as often as needed. If it is brought in with a tree spade, many of the large roots will be cut and it would still be hard for the tree to get the moisture it needs. It is best to plant trees in the spring or fall, when it is cooler and rains more often to keep the tree well watered through the establishment period. They are best planted prior to Memorial Day and then again after Labor Day. We advise against planting in the summer months.

*Reference to commercial products or trade names does not imply endorsement by Nebraska Extension or bias against those not mentioned.

Yard & Garden: June 19, 2020

This is the Q&A for the Yard and Garden show for June 19, 2020. Yard and Garden Live is a call-in radio show I do on KUTT 99.5 FM from 10-11:30 am and it will run through July 31, 2020. It can also be found on kutt995.com for online listening. If you missed a show or just want to read through the questions, I have written them all in my blog and will continue to do so throughout the season.

Guest Host: John Porter, Extension Educator, Douglas & Sarpy Counties

1. The first question of the show was from a walk-in listener. He had a dwarf Aberta spruce tree that was shooting out long stems of larger growth that didn’t look like the original plant. What is wrong with it?

A. This is reversion. Dwarf Alberta spruce commonly reverts back to the blue spruce parents. The dwarf Alberta spruce actually came from cuttings and grafted trees from a mutation in the original spruce tree. It is unusual growth in the main plant that the plant breeders have taken to make a new tree that is new and interesting. However, even after years of maintaining those traits, another genetic mutation can occur sending it back to the original parent growth of larger and faster growing. Those reverting parts, or large, wild growing branches should be pruned back or eventually the tree will look mostly like the general blue spruce or white spruce.

2. A caller has red raspberries that have been established for 7-8 years. Now the patch has a lot of grass growing in among the raspberries. How can the grass be controlled?

A. Mulch will be the best option for this area. Red raspberries grow upright so they don’t shade out the weeds as much as black raspberries. Glyphosate or Roundup can be used carefully around the plants as well. Use some type of a barrier between the grass and raspberries if sprayed or use a sponging type of applicator or paint it on the grass.

She also wondered what to do with the old canes of the raspberry plants. Should they be cut out?

A. Yes, remove them. Raspberries have perennial roots but the canes are biennial. The first year of growth for a cane is to grow the leaves, the second year is when that cane produces berries, then after that the cane dies out. Canes should be removed during the dormant season after they have fruited.

She also has peony plants and would like to know when is best to prune those back?

A. Peonies should be left to grow throughout the year and cut back in the fall after they turn brown. They need the leaves to grow throughout the summer months to build sugars for the roots so they can bloom well next year. The flower stalks can be removed, but the leaves should be left to grow until fall.

3. A caller has blackberries growing in a garden space in the middle of his native grass prairie area. There are now canes coming up and spreading throughout the prairie. How can those be controlled?

A. Blackberries will send out runners from the main plant. These runners are still connected by underground roots, rhizomes, so spraying a chemical on them could kill the main plant as well. It is best to just dig out the plants in the grass. You could use glyphosate or Roundup on the runners, but you would need to cut the runner first to cut the tie to the main plant.

4. This caller has spruce trees that have the tips of the branches dying and those tips are hooked over like a shepherd’s crook. They also have one that the top has died. What is wrong with these trees?

A. The tips of the branches look like the damage from a disease called sirococcus. To control Sirococcus shoot blight, apply a fungicide such as chlorothalonil (Daconil, Bravo) when new shoots are ½ to two inches long, typically in May; and repeat every 3 to 4 weeks if frequent rains occur. For more information, visit this Nebraska Forest Service publication on Diseases of Evergreen Trees. You would be a little late to spray now for this year, but could treat it next spring.

As for the top dieback, that is likely canker, a common disease in spruces. You will have to cut 6-8 inches below the dead area to get rid of that. This will remove the apical dominance in your tree and cause it to grow wider rather than upright. You can train a new leader by keeping one shoot growing more upright and taller than the others.

5. Is there a certain pH that is recommended for vegetable gardens?

A. The general recommendation is to have a pH close to neutral which is 7.0 The best growth from a vegetable garden is when the pH is 5.8-6.5 Below 5.5 or above 7.5 generally requires soil modification. To get the pH you can get a soil sample kit from your local Extension Office and send it in with a sample from your garden. For more information on how to do a soil sample, visit this NebGuide For more information on fertility requirements for your garden, visit this NebGuide

She also wondered about cedar apple rust and what to use to treat the cedar trees from this?

A. It is not necessary to treat cedar trees for cedar-apple rust because the galls on the trees do not harm the tree. If you have susceptible apple trees nearby, those should be sprayed when the orange galls are seen on the trees.

6. When is the best time to transplant roses?

A. Late fall is the best time to move roses, after they have gone dormant. They can be difficult to move, so be sure to take as much of the rootball as you can get.

How can you kill scrub trees growing around the roses?

A. Cut the trees off and paint the stump with glyphosate, or Roundup. You could also use the ‘Glove of Death’ method. This is when you wear a chemical-resistant glove and then put a cloth glove over that. Then, dip a few fingers of the gloved hand into Glyphosate and rub those fingers along the stem and leaves of the trees to kill them.

7. How can you manage grass in the vegetable garden?

A. Mulch would be the best option. No pesticides are labeled for use in the home garden without a Restricted Use pesticide license.

8. This caller has pampas grass that has grown large and now has a dead center. What can he do to get rid of the dead center?

A. The best option would be to dig up he pampas grass and divide it and then replant the new sections. This will eliminate the dead center. The fall would be the best time to do this.

9. A caller has a maple tree that was planted 3 years ago. Last year and again this year it has leafed out but the top third of the tree will lose all the leaves early in the summer and never regrow those leaves. What is wrong with it?

A. Unfortunately, it is likely that this tree is dying and will not recover. This is most likely caused by a root issue. A large root may have been injured when it was transplanted to this location or it could have a root rot issue. After discussions, she was watering the tree all night once a week. This is too much water for the tree. A newly planted tree would have a small rootball and would only need to be watered for about 20-30 minutes once a week, even a full grown tree would only need to be watered for about an hour at the slow trickle method. This tree was likely sitting in water for a few days after this long watering which would have caused the roots to rot and this will cause dieback from the top of the tree first followed by full tree death. It would be best to remove this tree and start over.

10. This caller has a pin oak tree with branches that hang over the sidewalk. When can she prune it and where should she prune the branches?

A. Oaks are prevalent to a disease caused oak wilt that is caused by a beetle spreading the disease when it feeds on a tree. The beetles are attracted to wounded trees, pruning the tree causes a wound. Because of this, oaks should not be pruned in the summer months. They are best pruned in the later fall. Prune back to the trunk, just outside of the branch collar. If you don’t want to cut all the way back, you can cut back to a side branch that is at least 1/2 the size of the branch that is being removed. Do not just cut to a random location in the middle of the branch.

11. A caller has thistles in her pasture. She went out to cut them the other day and noticed something had been feeding on the thistles. What was that?

A. There are some insects used to manage thistles, the thistle tortoise beetle is one. It is likely that this was feeding on the thistles which will help to control the population of the thistles.

12. This caller has 12 tomatoes, 2 of them have curling leaves at the top of the plant. What is causing this?

A. Unfortunately, we aren’t completely sure what is causing this damage, but it is widespread throughout the whole state this year. It could be from herbicide damage due to chemicals still being used later in the year with the cooler spring and sudden change of temperatures to very hot. There is also thought that it could be from the beet curly top virus. This could also be from watering issues such as over watering or underwatering. It would be best to just pull the plants out because if it is the virus it can spread to the other plants and if it is herbicide injury the produce would not be safe to consume. If the other plants look ok, this would be the best option. This condition is one that is being constantly discussed in Nebraska Extension this year.

13. The final caller of the show has an American Elm tree that 1/2 of it has leafed out and the other half has died. What is wrong with it?

A. It is likely that this plant has Dutch Elm Disease, just like the elm we discussed on the show last week. There is no control or prevention for this disease. American elms were mostly wiped out in the 1960’s due to this disease but a few have survived or came up naturally. The American elms that are still alive will eventually die due to the disease, it will get to them. He can send a sample into the UNL Plant Pest Diagnostic lab for confirmation, but if it is Dutch Elm disease, the tree should be removed.

*Reference to commercial products or trade names does not imply endorsement by Nebraska Extension or bias against those not mentioned.

Yard and Garden: March 24, 2017

Yard & Garden for blog, 2017

This is the Q&A for the Yard and Garden show for March 24, 2017. Yard and Garden Live is a call-in radio show I do on KUTT 99.5 FM from 10-11:30 am and it will run through July 28, 2017. It can also be found on kutt995.com for online listening. If you missed a show or just want to read through the questions, I have written them all in my blog and will continue to do so throughout the season.

Guest Host: Cole Thompson, Assistant Professor of Integrated Turfgrass Management at UNL

1. The first question of the year was a caller who had 2 peach trees that were three years old when they died last year. He cut the trees off and now there is suckers coming up from the ground where those trees were. Will these trees grow and produce peaches?

A. These trees will grow and will most likely produce fruit. However, they will not be a strong growth and the peaches produced may not be the variety that he originally planted. Many of our fruit trees are grafted to a hardier rootstock. If they die back or produce suckers, that growth will be the type of tree that the roots are not the type that the scion, or top part of the graft union, was. Also, because it is from a sucker, it is not going to grow as strong and upright as the main tree. He can try to keep them going but it would be best to plant new trees as well, if he has the space for both, he can keep both the suckers and new trees. If he only had room for a couple of trees, I would suggest starting the trees over from new trees.

2015-06-25 10.19.56
*Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended of those not mentioned and no endorsement by University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension is implied for those mentioned.

2. This caller wanted to know what the difference is between Roundup and Roundup 365?

A. Roundup 365 contains a chemical called imazapic which gives the traditional glyphosate product more of a soil residual. The Roundup 365 is labeled only for use on and around hardscape areas such as patios, gravel paths, and driveways. The label claims that it lasts in the soil for up to 12 months, so it should not be used around trees, shrubs, or areas you plan to reseed. Regular Roundup can be used in an area around plants and where you plan to seed after the recommended wait time. You would need to be much more careful with the Roundup 365 because of the soil residual around other plants.

3. A caller has pussy willow branches that were brought indoors and placed in water to begin rooting. They have now developed roots. Can they be planted outdoors now?

A. Yes, as long as the roots have begun to form and the ground can be worked, it would be fine to plant them outdoors now.

4. When is the best time to reseed a Fescue lawn in Southeast Nebraska?

A. Fall is the best time to reseed a lawn, but it can also be done fairly effectively in the spring. It is harder in the spring due to the weeds that compete with the grass seedlings. If you plan to reseed in the spring, it is best to wait until late April to early May for that. If you seed earlier in April, increase the seeding rate to compensate for the loss due to the colder temperatures. When you seed, you can apply tenacity or a mesotrione product to the seedbed to help with weeds. Tenacity is safe for use at seeding. It is also a good idea to seed with a starter fertilizer to help get your seed started strong.

5. This caller has a birch that was cut down last fall. The remaining stump is oozing a lot of liquid right now. How do they kill the birch entirely to stop the liquid from oozing out of the stump.

A. Birch trees are one of the species of trees that tend to “Bleed” heavily in the spring if they are pruned. They have a high sap flow in the spring which will lead to the oozing of large amounts of sap through any open wounds. On a normal pruning cut to a tree with high sap flow, it is not harmful to the tree. This tree still has living roots and the wound from cutting it off is exposed so the sap still will flow through. This tree either needs to be treated with chemicals to kill it or the stump needs to be ground out to stop this sap flow and to be able to plant new plants in the area. You can drill new holes into the tree and apply 2,4-D to those holes to start to kill the tree. With chemicals, it will take a few years to fully kill the stump.

6. Can raspberries be transplanted now?

A. Yes, raspberries should be planted as early as the ground can be worked in the spring, so now would be fine. It is best if the soil was prepared last year by spraying all the weeds and incorporating organic matter. This will help to ensure you have a raspberry planting to last many years.

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7. A caller planted grass last fall and held the seed to the seedbed with a biodegradable plastic barrier designed for seeding turf. However, now the plastic is not breaking down and it is getting stuck in the lawnmower. Is there anything they can do to break it down quicker? It will disturb the lawn too much to try to pull it out now.

A. Pulling it out without disturbing the lawn would be the quickest, but if that is not safe to do without tearing up the lawn, that isn’t the best option. Try to water it down or hope for rain, the moisture may help to break it down faster than it sitting dry. This winter was quite dry which may have delayed the breaking down process.

8. This caller had a giant tree fall in his yard. He has removed most of the tree but about 5 feet of the trunk is still standing in the yard. What can he do with the stump?

A. It would be best to cut that trunk off at the ground level and grind the stump out so that you can replant either with turf or with a new tree. If you don’t want to grind it out now or replant, you can cut it down to the ground level and place soil over it to allow it to naturally break down under the soil.

9. A caller has been growing watermelons but they tend to wither and die early in the year. What is wrong and how can he improve his crop?

A. It sounds like this caller has squash vine borers that get into his vines in the summer months. Squash vine borer is a type of moth larvae that gets into the stem of the vines and blocks the movement of water and nutrients through the plant. They are very common in melons, squash, cucumbers, and pumpkins. To avoid the damage from this insect, use a spray or dust formulation of sevin or eight on the base of the plant regularly through the growing season starting in June. You can also use aluminum foil or a toilet paper tube around the base of the plant to act as a barrier between the plant and the female squash vine borer adult who is trying to lay her eggs on the plant.

10. This caller has 25 bur oak trees that were planted 4 feet apart with the idea that some would die to space them out further. Most did not die and are still planted too closely. Will they grow that close together or should some be removed?

A. Bur oaks grow quite large, but in a forested area they will grow fairly close together. They will grow this closely together, however it will shade out many of the branches and it will cause conditions that are conducive to diseases when trees don’t have the space to have good airflow. It would be best to remove some of the trees so that the trees left behind are given 20 feet or more between them. They are only 10-12 feet tall at this time so they would still be fine to be spaded out and transplanted to another location if you can find someone to spade them and someone to plant them somewhere else.

11. Is it too early to plant onions? Is it time to cut back mums that are left from last fall?

A. Late March to early April is the best time to plant onions. Wait to cut back perennials from last fall. The dead plant material will protect them from freezing temperatures for another week or two. The plant material can be removed in the beginning to the middle of April.

12. This caller has a yard with high dog traffic. What type of grass would be best to stay growing through the dog traffic?

A. High traffic lawns will decline. Increasing the fertility will improve growth in this area. Also, if you could limit the traffic patterns from time to time through the lawn, this would help as well. Kentucky Bluegrass will recover better in high traffic areas.

13. A caller has a bean field area that he is trying to turn back to a grass area. What type of grass would do good in this area for an non-irrigated recreational area on an acreage?

A. Buffalograss would be great for an acreage area. Once it becomes established it wouldn’t have to be irrigated much or mowed at all. It is a very low maintenance grass species that is native and you can choose many different newer varieties. UNL has good seed selections. Because this was a bean field it might be over-tilled so a roller may be necessary to firm the soil up before planting. Buffalograss is a warm season grass so it should be seeded May 1st.

14. The final caller of the day has an established cedar windbreak. Some of the trees were removed recently and there is a bare area in the nearby trees where they were shaded out from the removed trees. This area is only 7 feet from the house. What can be planted in place of these trees to help block the bare area in the windbreak?

A. Because this is so close to the house, don’t go with anything too big. A larger shrub may be a good choice such as a viburnum, serviceberry, some dogwoods or even some lilacs may help fill in. Some slender growing trees may also work, but full size trees may grow into the house.

Yard and Garden: April 24, 2015

Yard and Garden Green Logo

This is the Q&A for the Yard and Garden show for April 24, 2015. Yard and Garden Live is a call-in radio show I do on KUTT 99.5 FM from 10-11:30 am and it will run through July 31, 2015. It can also be found on kutt995.com for online listening. If you missed a show or just want to read through the questions, I have written them all in my blog and will continue to do so throughout the season.

Guest Host: Jeff Culbertson, Assistant Director of UNL Landscape Services

1. This caller wants to know why the water in her rain barrels is turning green and how to fix that problem?

A: The water should be used sooner from the rain barrels and not allowed to sit in it for very long periods of time. There is a great NebGuide on ‘Rainwater Harvesting with Rain Barrels‘. Algae can sometimes appear and can be reduced by:

  • Limit nutrient build-up in the barrel by reducing the amount of sediment and plant debris entering the barrel. These are sources of nutrients like phosphorous and nitrogen that promote algae. Clean roof gutters at least annually. If hosing out the roof gutter, remove the rain barrel before cleaning. Consider installing gutter screens along with using screens/filters before the barrel inlet.
  • Clean the barrel at least once a year to remove sediment.
  • Use dark-colored, painted, or opaque barrels to limit light.
  • Place rain barrels in a shady location when possible.

2. This caller had a willow that is leafing out from the bottom without any growth at the top of the tree. Is this normal or what is wrong with the tree?

A: This could be due to dieback from the winter which is being seen throughout the landscape this year. It is still early in the season so the tree could come out of it, so give it time to see if it comes back. Scrape off some of the bark with your fingernail to see if underneath is brown or green. Green is healthy growing tissue, brown is not. If it seems to be dead later in the season, you can prune out some of the dead branches and the tree may still survive.

3. When is the best time to dig cedar trees from the pasture to transplant them into a windbreak?

A: Now would be a good time to do this. Make sure they are small trees and that they are protected from deer and rabbits in their new location. Keep them well watered.

4. What is a good rhubarb fertilizer?

A: 12-12-12 or 10-10-10 would be a good general fertilizer to use or manure in the fall.

5. This caller wanted to know if Ponderosa Pine was still a recommended tree due to the threat from Pine wilt?

A: Ponderosa Pine is only mildly affected by pine wilt. Very few ponderosa pines have been killed due to the disease. It is still on the list of trees from ReTree Nebraska. Watch these trees for tip and needle blight, 2 common needle diseases, that can be easily treated with fungicides.

6. A caller has 2 trees in her windbreak that were planted about 8 years prior to a storm that has caused them to lean now. It has been a couple of years since the storm, but the trees are still leaning. Can this lean be fixed?

A: They will grow straighter over time and eventually straighten up somewhat. If the lean is too much, they will not overcome that.

7. This caller has been gradually replacing a plum hedge with Lilacs. What can he do to prevent disease and insect problems in the lilacs?

A: After about 2-3 years of initial growth, begin annually removing the largest, woodiest stems from the lilac shrubs. This will help keep the shrubs with younger, better producing wood and it will help keep the borers and scale away from the plants. As for disease control, just be sure to space the lilacs properly. Most full sized lilacs will get 3-4 feet wide so space them about 4 feet apart to reduce the overlapping of the branches and leaves which can lead to more disease problems.

8. A caller has a large asparagus bed that wasn’t cleaned up last fall. What care can be done for the asparagus now and in the future?

A: It would be best to clean the asparagus up one time a year, either in the fall or late winter just before spring growth begins. To help reduce weeds after that, spray the weeds while they are green and the asparagus hasn’t emerged for the year yet in the spring. Fertilize the planting bed either in the spring with general purpose fertilizer or in the fall with manure or both times.

9. This caller has a rose bush on an old property and wants to know how to propagate it or transplant some of it to their home?

A: Remove and transplant any suckers on the plant will work on an older rose variety that wouldn’t have been grafted. Anytime now is a great time to transplant a rose bush.

10. This gentleman has French Dwarf Lilacs and he was told not to trim them out. Is this true?

A: These can be cut back or caned out annually to keep them smaller and to help them produce more flowers.

11. A caller had stumps from trees that were cut down last year. The stumps were treated with Tordon. Can he use the mulch they will make from the stumps in his landscape or would the Tordon still be in the wood chips?

A: Wood chips that were treated with Tordon could still have that pesticide residue in the wood chips. It should not be used around plants. Disclaimer: Tordon should NOT be used in a landscape setting, it is against label instructions. Always read and follow pesticide labels. Remember: The label is the Law.

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12. This gentleman had cedars with the tips of the branches turning brown this year. What is causing that and what should be done for it?

A: This could be winter kill as that is showing up in many juniper species this spring. It may also be Kabatina, a disease of junipers. The brown can be cut out of the trees at a branch crotch. The trees should live.

13. This caller was looking for a shade tree for her front yard that is fast growing, stays around 20 feet tall and possibly provides flowers or good color to the landscape.

A: Chanticleer or Cleveland Select Pear would be good for spring color. Crabapples can also grow to 20 feet tall and would provide a great deal of color and scent in the spring. Japanese Tree Lilac is another good choice for a smaller tree.

14. This caller is planting strawberries and raspberries. What kind of care would she need to provide them?

A: Here is a good guide from Sarah Browning on Summer Berries-Raspberry and Blackberry to guide you through the raspberries. Heritage is a good raspberry variety choice. This is a good guide from Lancaster County Extension on strawberry care called Growing Strawberries.

15. This caller has a pin oak tree that has iron deficiency. She has used the iron plugs on the trees but she is curious if there is another choice that will work better and for a longer period of time on the pin oaks?

A: This tree will continue to have problems once it starts to show signs from Iron Deficiency and it will eventually die from this nutrient problem. She can try to have a professional due trunk injections which will last longer each time, but this will have to be continued for the remainder of this trees life.

16. This caller wanted to know how to prepare cut lilac flowers to last longer indoors?

A: Cut the flowers before they have opened on the plant. Make a new cut on the stem and change the water daily. Use a preservative in the water. The preservative can be either a store bought product or make your own mixture by dissolving 4 heaping teaspoons of cane sugar and 2 tablespoons of white distilled vinegar in one quart of warm water.

17. This caller wanted to control the dandelions in his yard and not the clover. Can a chemical be used for this?

A: Using spot sprays of 2,4-D when the weather is calm and the temperatures are below 80 degrees Fahrenheit for the day of application and the 2 days following would help reduce damage to the clover. The other option would be to dig or hand pull the dandelions. The chemicals that would work for dandelion would also work to kill clover.

Happy Arbor Day! Plant a Tree!!

Image Courtesy of Steven Katovich, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org
Image Courtesy of Steven Katovich, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org